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Climb Mount Yanapaccha 5460m/17,913ft
Itinerary Overview
Grade: Moderate to Difficult/ previous Experience Required
Climbing Duration: 3 days / 2 Days
Yanapaccha (Yahn ah pahc cha) is located near the head of Quebrada (valley) Llanganuco, near the well-known mountains Pisco and Chacraraju. The name Yanapaccha means "black waterfall" in Quechua, although the usual west face route is anything but black. Perhaps the name relates to its appearance from the Portachuelo de Llanganuco pass, which would be on the opposite face.
Yanapaccha is only slightly lower in altitude than Pisco and only moderately harder to climb. The upper slopes of Yanapaccha are great for graduating from glacier traverses to peaks that require front-pointing and other steep-slope climbing techniques. The upper slopes of the west face involve extended climbing at an inclined angle of about 50 to 60 degrees. The ascent to Yanapaccha is not suitable for novice climbers, but it is an ideal peak for experienced climbers or those first time climbers who have received previous instruction on ice climbing and mountaineering techniques that requires climbing on fixed ropes, and use of belay techniques. The panoramic view from Yanapaccha’s summit is one of the most spectacular views found anywhere in the beautiful Cordillera Blanca Range.
Peak Climbing Period: The best season to climb is from mid-June until late July and early August.
Itinerary:
Day 1: Huaraz – drive to Portachuelo – hike to Yanapaccha Moraine Camp (4900m/16072ft)
Day 2: Moraine Camp – Yanapaccha Summit (5460m/17,913ft) – Cebollapampa
Summit Day! Ascending on ice axes and descending on rappel
Summit Day: This day we will have an early breakfast and start our ascent between 2:00 AM to 3:00 AM. Our guide will determine the starting time according to the average fitness of our clients. At the beginning we’ll climb for about 30 minutes through a field of large moraine rock before reaching the glacier. Before we start climbing on the glacier we will put on our crampons and rope up. The initial ascent onto the glacier is a steep 45 degree ice climb for approximately 300m/984ft before reaching the more gentle terrain on the glacier with slopes of 30 degrees to 40 degrees. On our ascent, we will pass by large crevasse fields before arriving at the west face of Yanapaccha from where we complete our climb to the summit. The last 180m/590ft of the ascent to reach the summit is a steep 65 degrees. Depending on our clients’ experience and confidence, we will probably fix a safety rope in some of the steeper sections of the ascent/decent for the added confidence and comfort level of our clients.
We’ll be climbing for approximately 4 to 5 hours this day to reach the summit from where you will enjoy the incredible surrounding panoramic views and capture some unforgettable photos (your “10 on the drool scale” for photo documented bragging rights). After our brief stop at the summit we’ll descend back down to Cebollapampa and overnight at 3900m/12,795ft.
Day 3: Cebollapampa - Lake 69 – Huaraz
After breakfast we start hiking up to the beautiful blue Lake 69 at 4500m/14,764ft. We’ll ascend on a switch-back trail for about 2 ½ to 3 hours to reach the lake located just below Mount Pisco and Mount Chacraraju. We will take the time here to enjoy the view from this vantage point and take photos before we return to camp. On the way back you’ll have a great close-up view of mountains of Huascaran, Chopicalqui and Yanapaccha before returning to Cebollapampa around midday for lunch at camp. After lunch we’ll pack up our tents and return in our private transportation back to your hotel in Huaraz. Our return drive will be approximately 2 ½ to 3 hours.
NOTE: This program can be accomplished in two (2) days as well. It depends on our clients’ fitness, previous trekking/climbing experience and available time. We can delete the 3rd day and leave off a visit to Lake 69 returning back to Huaraz after summit day.
Contact Inkaland Journeys for further information & prices. We are flexible to discuss and create a suitable program that will work for you.
The Andes is our space…..come trek and climb in it with us
Contact Us for a detailed information and prices.
After the breakfast in your hotel we will pick up you and drive in our private transportation along the Callejón de Huaylas (Huaylas Canyon) heading north of Huaraz. During this drive you’ll be able to enjoy the spectacular view of the Cordillera Blanca mountain range including Peru’s highest peak, Huascaran 6768m/22,205ft. On our ride we will be passing close to the traditional Quechua towns including Carhuas and Yungay. Yungay in the 1970’s was completely buried by an avalanche of large boulders, mud, ice and snow coming off the slopes of Huascaran. There is an option to stop and briefly visit the market in Yungay and see and interact with the Quechua people up close. We will continue on our drive from Yungay as we drive up the Llanganuco (yahn gah nu co) Valley on a dirt road to enter the Huascaran National Park. After entering the park we will pass by the beautiful cochas (lakes) of the Llanganuco valley named Chinancocha (female lake) and Orconcocha (male lake). Our total drive this day will be approximately 3 hours to where we start our hike up to the Morena Camp near a lake. Overnight at 5000m/16,404ft. Total trekking time is approximately 4 to 5 hours.